Find Your Way to Fyn | The Garden Island of Denmark
Faaborg is the perfect little Danish Village in Southern Funen
First things first. I’m a realist. It’s true. But you may want to scratch Iggy Azalea from your mental playlist because I’m really not that fancy. Actually. I’m a lover. Of down to earth. And the outdoors. And nature. I know. I live in the city. But I crave green and small towns and simple and seek it out often. And recently found it again on Fyn. I love Fyn. It’s the middle sister of Denmark. I’ve spoken of her charms before. Fyn is the island west of where Copenhagen sits, full of rolling green fields plump with rye and wheat and new potatoes, rhubarb and strawberries. Those luscious Danish strawberries that when ripe are like red jewels of juicy goodness. And apples, don’t forget the apples come autumn that fall ripe from orchards across Fyn. This is where the goods are grown to make much of the delicious Danish cuisine. There is reason Fyn is known as the garden island of Denmark.
But more than just pastoral, Fyn is full of pretty little Danish villages that can charm your socks off. Faaborg, on the south side of the island, is a perfect example of an iconic Danish town. I’ve shared my favorites before, but Faaborg fits with this lot just fine. Conjure this. Half-timbered houses. Cobblestone streets. Scandinavian colored buildings with delightfully detailed doors. Tack on red-tiled roofs and fancy scrolled signage and you have the makings of a magical little village in Denmark. Fyn is the childhood home of Hans Christian Andersen and in towns like Faaborg, you can picture the whole story happening here. Cue swans stage left. Oh hej swans!
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STROLL DOWN THE STRØGET
Every Danish village has an old town, or gamle centrum where you should start. Follow signs to Faaborg C. The old town is where you’ll get the most bang for your iconic Danish village buck – this is where the charm is chocked. Park your car and stroll the main pedestrian shopping street closed to cars that anchors almost every little town in Denmark. Step off the center street and sidle down alleyways to find specialty shops, art galleries and small unique restaurants and cafés full of good coffee and Danish kage. Cake. Danes make darn good cake.
FISHING IS FINE ON FYN
Being an island, Fyn is surrounded by water. Where there is water, there is fish. Turn right off the center shopping street and make your way down to Faaborg’s pretty little harbor. Red-orange tiled roofs atop yellow and white houses sit colorful against the blue Baltic waters. Home to seatrout and herrings and cod and mackerel, fish is a main dish in the parts. You can try your hand at catching your own or just taste some on offer at the local café.
TRY THE LOCAL SMOKED FISH AT FAABORG RØGERI
Want a real taste of coastal Denmark? Try the smoked fish. Danes smoke almost everything and you’ll find little smokehouses (called røgeri in Danish) in almost every small town along the water. Faaborg is no exception and has a fabulous purveyor right on the harbor. Find your way to the Faaborg Røgeri Café for a light lunch or some smoked fish to take away. When the weather is wonderful, you can take your fish dish outside to picnic tables overlooking the water. When it isn’t so wonderful, don’t worry, it’s cozy inside and still affords views of the visiting fishing vessels.
Faaborg Røgeri smokes their own fish every day and have been doing so right here for 15 years. When you order fish to eat in-house, it is served with Danish rugbrød, a little smør (butter), sliced red onions and some greens. Wash it down with local snaps or a glass of the special beer brewed specifically for the café. If you are Dane (and not driving) you might order both. Snaps is perfect for smoked fish. Something about a small swig of the strong clear liquor balances the smoky flavors. And as many Danes might say – “Fisk skal svomme!” Fish must swim. *Wink, wink.
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For the uninitiated, try the smoked salmon, it will be the most familiar. For the more adventurous, try the “Sol over Faaborg,” which directly translates to sun over Faaborg, and offers a small cup of raw egg yolk to pour over the smoked herring atop your rye bread. Before you balk, believe me, it is scrumptious. So good. My husband favors the salmon and we take extra to go. We love the smoky flavor so much, we buy some of their house smoked salts to use at home. Don’t like fish? Never fear, Faaborg Røgeri also serves sweets like Belgian waffles and hot chocolate and also ice cream in warmer weather.
Faaborg Røgeri Café
Vestkaj 3 | 5600 Faaborg
TAKE A FERRY TO THE SOUTH FYN ARCHIPELAGO
Not only can you find fabulous smoked fish and colorful fishing vessels on the fine Faaborg harbor, but you can hop on a ferry to one of the many little islands that lay beyond Fyn out in the Baltic Sea. This is the South Fyn Archipelago and affords just lots more Danish fun. From Faaborg, you can take ferries to lovely little Danish island idylls like Ærø, Lyø and Avernakø. Find ferry timetables and buy tickets here. Be like a Viking and set to the seas. Go explore!
WHERE TO STAY
If there was a perfect place to stay on South Fyn, just outside Faaborg – look to Falsled Kro in nearby Faldsled, Denmark. This historic Inn has been charming guests since the late 16th century. We stopped by to take a peek and are already making plans to sneak a retreat. Reservations are recommended for their well-regarded restaurant, available even if you aren’t staying at the Inn. Or just stop by for a coffee and cake in the cozy lounge. I wanted to sit by that fire for hours.
FALSLED KRO
Assensvej 513, 5642 Millinge
So if you are looking for a fair Danish village, and you find yourself on the south shore of Fyn, don’t skip Faaborg, a new fave in my book.
I want to go there!
You would love the Inn! A perfect place for two!
Only problem with Faldsled Kro is the price range, it is really expensive compared to other places… although the quality of the stay leaves nothing to complaint about, food, and lodgings are world class there.
Yes René, I agree, definitely not an economical choice, but such a special place and experience!
What a beautiful looking place! Denmark is def somewhere I would like to return to and explore more
Most people don’t get past Copenhagen which is awesome, but Denmark has lots of lovely little coastal villages to explore as well! Cheers.
Oh my goodness Miss Erin, you have outdone yourself. The photos are spectacular!! And that whole booking the hotel right there and then in the post. Was super tempted to do a quick search (except I need to stay ‘home’ for a while!). fantastic post!
Thank you Carolyn – you would adore the Falsled Kro – it was just sooo cozy and the restaurant looked amazing!
Stop it with that Danish perfection! I have to say you are so fancy in your own way – like how you find yellow bikes against a slightly different yolk shade of wall. I’d love to hang with you there one day
Haha! If that is fancy, then I’m fine with it! Would love to island hop the archipelago from pretty little Faaborg with you!
Take me back to Denmark – I really need to explore more of the country! I love the way the Scandinavians do smoked fish – always such fantastic flavours! #farawayfiles
Yum. I love the smoked fish. Seriously. So good.
such a sweet place
Faaborg seems like such a cute town. I wouldn’t mind spending some time there. #FarawayFiles
Nice post about my hometown. This is where I grew up and I visit there several times a year. I have actually been there the past 5 days. Very nice photos you captured there. And the cafe with the smoked fish is actually owned by my cousins daughter 🙂
Oh so cool! I think I met her – sooo nice. We loved it. What a lovely spot to visit regularly!
Erin, if there is a photo in this bunch not worth framing I missed it because I love all of them, even the pretty bottles full of salt! The yellow wall with yellow bike is my favorite though… has anyone published a book of bikes with matching walls? Maybe you should consider it? You certainly have the material and I know it would be so popular! #farawayfiles
Oh you are so sweet! Thank you kindly! It is a very photogenic town!
Everything is so stinkin’ cute! Faabourg has been on my Denmark wish list for a while! You know how I love me some half-timbered towns!! Pinned! #FarawayFiles
Haha! I always think of you when there are half-timbered homes around!!
If you liked faaborg, then next time, look to visit Svendborg and maybe tjeck the hotel Stella Maris out. ( http://www.stellamaris.dk) i live in faaborg and love both towns
Hej Helle! I had originally planned on staying in Svendborg because I have only heard wonderful things – but couldn’t find a place last minute to fit our fam of five. We did drive through on our drive home to Copenhagen and see it needed much more time to do it justice! Thanks for the recommendation! Cheers, Erin
Oh.. I can regemend the bed and breakfast Danninghus on tåsinge Also, it is a wonderfull place, With an amazing apple plantage. http://www.danninghus.dk i Hope you Come back and ser the rest of Fyn
Ooooh – I love it! Thank you so much!
I love all the cute little street and colorful houses. Instant happiness! #FarawayFiles
I loved reading about my hometown in this post. So glad to hear you had a great time. Please come back in Summer. It’s soooooo much more “hygge” then. 😀 <3
Hugs from Faaborg 😉 – Anne-Mette Højbjerg – http://www.giz-blog.dk
I would love to see it in summer!
Everything you write about Denmark just makes me want to v I si & this looks stunning – the colourful buildings, the pretty cobbled streets and yes even the smoked fish. I am determined to get there one day.
It’s perfect for a bike holiday! Especially Fyn – you can base in places like Faaborg and ferry to the cute little islands in the archipelago – you would love it!
You’ve really sold it to me – I can see we’ll have to head there at some point – thanks #FarawayFiles
WOW! This is a cute one! I wanna visit! #farawayfiles
This looks so fabulous. The more of your Danish posts I read, the more I want to go. I love the picture of the yellow wall and yellow bicycle! #FarawayFiles
Charm galore! Love the descriptions and photos, of course. But I now want to sample all the smoked things! The food sounds like a winner. I think I would def go for the salmon. Great details, Erin. #FarawayFiles
What a cute town! It reminds me of Stavanger, Norway where I grew up and would love to return! #FarawayFiles
Cute Danish villages seem to give me the same warm and fuzzy feeling as English chocolate box villages. I think that I’m like you in that I live in (or on the outskirts of) the city, but I crave wide open spaces and lots of green around me. #FarawayFiles
I actually want to try Sol over Faaborg! I am of the mindset that I will try everything once before I judge!
Loved the photos, I have a bit of a soft spot for harbour towns and villages, and to top it all the smell of smoked fish is so tempting. #farawayfiles
Oh, those bright colors! I love that yellow wall with the bicycle. This is such a picturesque harbor town. How I would love to visit!
This weekend (I am at the hotel right now), I am visiting Solvang, California’s Danish town. You are not going to believe it but this town looks so much like Faaborg. I love it here and am sure I would love the small towns in Denmark. I always have said I want to see more of Denmark than Copenhagen. #FarawayFiles
Ironically, my husband grew up visiting Solvang on their way from Pasadena to Santa Barbara where they had a beach house. We contemplated going to visit when we were back in Cali summer before last, but thought the direct comparison might not fare well. We’ll save a trip to Solvang for when we live Stateside again and need a little nostalgia for Denmark! 😉 Enjoy! Look forward to seeing your pics and reading your Solvang post – I’ve never been!
Thank you for the lovely post! I was born in Faaborg and most of my family still live there. I actually think it’s my grandmas bike you’ve photographed there. She lives 25m down that street. You might find Kerteminde and Middelfart interesting too ?
Ha! That is amazing! We have been to Kerteminde twice – love it up there as well. We went apple picking at the Nybro Frugtplantage in fall once and explored up by Fyns Hoved another time. So beautiful! Haven’t been to Middelfart yet – will put it on my Danish town wishlist!
Har du været på Ærø?
Not yet Thomas! It’s on my list – would love to see it!
https://www.google.dk/search?biw=1563&bih=1080&tbm=isch&sa=1&ei=NoPIWv2xFsqkwQLem7fwBQ&q=%C3%A6r%C3%B8sk%C3%B8bing&oq=%C3%A6r%C3%B8s&gs_l=psy-ab.1.0.0l10.12322.12322.0.13817.1.1.0.0.0.0.66.66.1.1.0….0…1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.1.65….0.HAUxRlrLRaI
Man I love colourful scandi streets, this place looks right down my alley lol! #FarawayFiles
Oh my, it’s gorgeous and pretty, love those vibrant colours! The accommodation Falsled Kro looks inviting, a great place to stay and to dine as well. Yeah, I wanna have some cake and sit by the fire in that historic inn! 🙂 #FarawayFiles
Wow, what a gorgeous town! The colors are so vibrant, and everything looks so clean and charming. I went to Denmark once 10 years ago, it’s high time I return! I remember trying some smoked fish, it was absolutely delicious. But now I’m interested in trying it with the snaps you mentioned! Love that expression “Fisk skal svomme!,” hilarious. Thanks for all of the great information, I’ve added it to my ever-growing list! #FarawayFiles
Hi, you forgot the little island Bjørnø with only 30 inhabitants. No cars and only 17 minutes with the little ferryboat from Faaborg. Just great if you want to relax
So cozy!
Been there! Loved it!
I’m seeing this site 2 years later. I visited Faaborg in 1970 and have meant to return ever since. So thank you for the tour.