Copenhagen’s Topless Sandwiches | Best Places to Taste the Smørrebrød

From classic spots to modern restaurants, what to expect at an authentic Danish lunch.

Come to Copenhagen, she said. And take your top off. Your sandwich at least. Here, the ubiquitous lunch dish is called smørrebrød – a Danish open-faced sandwich – and scandalous it’s not. Copenhagen is a tasty town try a piece or two, or more. Offerings of these gorgeous sandwiches washed down with carefully curated and house-infused snaps will convert the curious.

And whether you prefer the old-school vibe of an iconic café or the upscale design aesthetic of a more modern restaurant – the Danish capital has you covered. But you should still don your own top. I’ll share some smørrebrød etiquette, what to expect on menus and where you can try it. Come along and see what you’re missing. Skål! Cheers. 

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Where to Celebrate an Old School Danish Jul

Finding old-fashioned Christmas hygge around Denmark

The Danes adore Christmas and hold fast to their holiday rituals. From what they eat to how they decorate their trees and abodes. Want to get a sense of where those customs all started? Step back in time at one of these historic spots across the country. It’s a fun way to explore the beginnings of all those Danish Christmas traditions.

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10 Ways to Make the Most of Christmas in Copenhagen

Jul Love Christmas in the Danish Capital

When living in Denmark. I say. Bring on Christmas.

It’s November now. The clock has turned back and the dark descends earlier each evening. By Christmas, it’ll be down to a mere seven hours of daylight per day around Denmark. No need to fret. Don’t be concerned. Bust out your candles and spark on those fairy lights. Let’s get our Jul on. It’s one of the things I adored most about living in Denmark. And Danish Christmas activities kick off quickly – the first Friday of November – with J-Dag and the delivery of julebryg, or Christmas beer all over Copenhagen. Soon the Julemanden, Denmark’s version of Santa, will illuminate the streets with stars, hearts, and twinkles swathed above this pretty city’s historic center. Continue reading “10 Ways to Make the Most of Christmas in Copenhagen”

Copenhagen Color: Where to Get Your Autumn On

Best Places to Find Fall Color in Copenhagen

A Self-Guided Bicycle/Walking Tour of Autumn Foliage and Danish Café Hygge

Fall is fantastisk in Copenhagen. Deciduous trees that dominate the landscape start changing colors to blend perfectly with the classic Scandinavian architecture. The Danish capital is suddenly coordinated in rusty reds, earthy ochres, and burnt oranges. This town is built for autumn. The long Nordic summer days slowly get shorter as they slip into my favorite season, even as the light lingers less and the air turns cool. Pull on a sweater. Or a jumper, if you’re British. Definitely bring layers and something to stave off the very real potential for rain. Fall can be crisp like a tart Danish apple, famous from the island of Fejø, ripe and ready to pluck.

But it’s not always rainy. Here, autumn can come sometimes sunny and bright. In Danish, there is a name for that hybrid season as summer turns to fall – known as sensommer. And it can be sublime. Come soak it up. And if the weather wanes, as it is wont to do in Denmark, you can enjoy the season change from inside one of Copenhagen’s many cozy cafés and delicious craft coffeehouses.

Originally posted September 2019, updated September 2022

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Where to go crabbing in West Sweden

Take a seafood safari through Gothenburg’s gorgeous archipelago of islands
Head out to sea with Kastor Boat Trips in the Hönö Harbor

If you know this Oregon Girl, you know that I love sampling fresh local seafood while I’m out traveling. Especially when it’s sustainably caught not far from the shores we’re visiting. So when planning our trip back to Scandinavia this summer, I carved out a few days to try some in West Sweden. This region is famous for seafood caught in the cool, clear waters of the Baltic Sea.

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