Wind and waves on the wild west coast of Denmark.
Let’s look at Løkken
North Jutland lies on the opposite side of Denmark from Copenhagen. And while it may be an effort to make your way west, it is definitely worth it. I’m a west coast girl from the States. I am used to driving west towards the ocean. The sun sets that way. That is where the water should be. To me. And this west Danish coast feels very much like parts of the Oregon Coast (minus mountain ranges and forests of evergreens.)
It is rough here. Wild. And wonderful. I was so happy to finally see it. Experience it. Soak it in. I have written about the Danish coast before. Denmark has a lot of coastlines. Just look at the map. But the shore is so definitively different on the west side of the country. To start off, it borders a completely different ocean.
This is not the relatively calm Øresund or Kattegat, which account for the bulk of Denmark’s Baltic water borders along the eastern side. Nope. It’s the North Sea here. And it brings waves and the wind which shape a completely different shore along west Jutland.
SURF’S UP
Did you say waves? Yes. Waves. Surfers, windsurfers and kitesurfers have all found fun on this coast and take full advantage of the varying levels of swells. A bit further south of Løkken, near Klitmøller and Thy, the Nordjylland coast is familiarly known as “kaldt Hawaii.” Cold Hawaii. And while the term is catchy and maybe even kitsch, there is nothing tropical to talk about here. Surfing and sand are the ONLY similarities. But like Hawaii, the west coast of Denmark is truly beautiful. In its very own way.
Little town on the Northwest coast of Denmark
At the recommendation of our Danish friend, we booked a summer house on the west coast in a lovely little town called Løkken. Påskeferie (the Easter holiday) has just passed. And with five state-sanctioned days off, many Danes dash out of the city. We decided to join them this year.
In the capital, shops shutter and the streets stand empty. But in Løkken, there is life. So THIS is where you all are. Bustling and busy and bursting with visitors, lovely little Løkken is open for business all Easter weekend.
WHAT TO DO IN LØKKEN
TOUR THE TOWN
Løkken sits nestled safely from the elements behind the grassy dunes. Like most little Danish towns, there is a main square and pedestrian shopping area. When the sun is out, cafés spill open and offer lots of places for lunch outside.
Stroll the strand
Løkken is known for its beach. Strand in Danish. In the summer, it gets packed when the little white beach huts line up in rows. It is wide and flat here, allowing for cars or cycles to roll right on the sand.
SPY THE FISHING BOATS UP ON THE BEACH
One of my favorite parts of Løkken were the fishing boats pulled up on the beach.
GO SURFING
Here on the north shore we treat friends mo’ betta.
– North Shore, the Movie
Get out there brø. Rent a board or take lessons. The friendly staff at North Shore Surf will gladly hook you up. They even have a sauna and hot tub going on cold days for warming up after. The surf shop and café sit right at the entrance to the beach, so even if you aren’t up for the waves, grab a coffee and chill. When the food cart is open, fresh fisk & tjips or fisk frikadeller are available to enjoy on the deck. Wash down with cold beers, juices and water.
North Shore Surf and Café
Sdr Strandvej 18, 9480 Løkken
MAKE YOUR OWN CANDY
Danes love candy. There are reports that rank Denmark #1 in world for not only happiness, but annual consumption of slik. Candy. Is there a correlation? Maybe. But the house made candy at Bolcheriet in Løkken is sure to make anyone happy. And what if you could make your OWN candy? Even happier. Bolchieret is a modern and socially connected candy factory right on the main square of Løkken.
We were lucky enough to catch one of their events where you can make your own slikkepind. Lollipops. For 25 DKK, children wait their numbered turn as warm lengths of freshly made candy ropes are handed out on plates at the work station. Participants loop their sweet string into a spiral and insert the lollipop stick to secure the treat which cools quickly and is ready to enjoy immediately.
Check their website for upcoming opportunities.
Bolcheriet
Torvet 1, 9480 Løkken
EXPLORE WWII HISTORY
From sweet treats to world history. 2000 Nazi bunkers from the Second World War still stand along the west coast of Denmark, part of the 8000 bunkered North Sea defense line that strung from France up to Norway. Graffitied and now grown over, some sunken in the sand; they are an eery reminder of a war long gone.
HIKE TO THE RUBJERG KNUDE LIGHTHOUSE
14 km north of Løkken, you will find the Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse. It is famous. Famous for being overtaken by a sand dune. A really huge sand dune. Built in 1900, it originally sat 200 meters inland warning ships off shore. Over the years, the wind and water pushed inland and swept sand into the lighthouse and the surrounding buildings. Attempts to keep the sand out became overwhelming and the lighthouse was abandoned to the encroaching dune in 1968. The dune continues to move, an average of 40m/year and there is concern that the lighthouse may eventually fall into the sea in the not so distant future. Current estimates say as early as 2023. Don’t put it off. See it for yourself.
It is an 1 km hike from the parking lot to the dune and the lighthouse. And art installation inside currently allows visitors to climb to the top free of charge. Stunning views from the top.
Rubjerg Knude Fyr
Fyrvejen 30, 9480 Løkken
HOW TO GET TO LØKKEN
From Copenhagen
You can either take the ferry from Sjællands Odde to Aarhus or the Store Bælt Bridge across Fyn. We prefer the ferry route as it gives a break to the time of all five of us in the car. It takes about five hours depending on ferry timing.
WHERE TO STAY
We found our summer house via Airbnb, which affords flexibility when booking for stays less than a week.
Love all the boats and the coastline is beautiful! I can’t believe Danes get 5 DAYS off! In Germany, we only get 4…..and I had to work on one of them! grr! Need to move to Denmark now haha #FarawayFiles
Well – that does include Sat and Sun – but they get Maundy Thursday, Good Friday AND Easter Monday off to give 5 days for exploring! It’s nice!
I love the wild feel of it here. A little obsessed with the danish coast and countryside at the mo, so this makes me want to visit so bad! :s #FarawayFiles
that’s a nice beach! are there more ppl in the summer? #farawayfiles
YES! TONS MORE! I’ve heard it can get a little crowded and crazy in the summer – so if that’s your thing, it’s the place to go. But for us – it was perfect at Easter!
Lokken looks like my perfect beachy escape. I love those expansive sandy beaches, wooden fishing boats and lighthouse. I’d love to spend a few days there clearing my mind!
It was the perfect place – low key and adventures to be found if you wanted them… fun places to eat and experiences to be had!
Seems you had a great Easter trip. 🙂 #FarawayFiles
Super fantastisk! We had a great time. Cheers from Denmark, Erin
Wow, just beautiful. So rugged, so wild and raw. I love this and would definitely want to go here. But it does look quite freezing. Definitely need a good wooly hat to survive this one! And as for making your own candy? SOLD.
It’s all relative Juliette! When the wind is blowing – yes, bring your hat!
Looks so nice – I just love anywhere nautical and windswept (though not too windswept). And buying local sweets is always the highlight of my hols, especially in that part of Europe. English and Irish sweets are crap in comparison I’m afraid
Are you a fan of the Nordic licorice?
HUGELY! I love the saltiest stuff, and I love the chocolate and licorice combos that you find in Sweden, Finland and Norway (Salmiakki chocolate in red and black packaging? Mostly Swedish I think; it’s delicious). First few days in Norway I made myself a bit sick on licorice, it was good.
YES! YUM. I love the Jatte Salt version from Sweden – which I may have also overdone the first go round. I love lakrids ice cream and I always take the black bits from the mixes we find!
Mmm I must research this ice cream you mention…
If you come to Copenhagen – Østerberg Ice Cream has my FAVORITE lakrids (licorice in Danish) ice cream. I will miss it when we leave. FOR SURE.
I am sure happiness and candy are very strongly correlated- but having such pretty towns and coastlines, can’t hurt either! what a lovely part of the world to explore. #farawayfiles
The candy is part of the Danish hugge tradition – sharing sweet treats in a cozy setting!
I really need to go to Lokken! Love the look of that wild coast, the fishing boats and the lighthouse. Lots of great stuff for families too – mine would really enjoy making lollipops and learning to surf. #farawayfiles
Yes and I think despite the cold water (wetsuits provided) the surf here looked like a great place to learn! And candy. That was really fun. Such a chaotic and joyful scene to be part of!
I remember seeing your lighthouse pic on IG and being so intrigued. How crazy if it does meet its fate and fall into the sea. I love how rugged this coast is would love to visit some day. And anywhere that makes its own candy I’m a fan of..sweet tooth over here! #farawayfiles
The Bolcheriet was an experience in and of itself… they had about 100 kids that morning (in the summer it can get up to 200 they said). It was chaotic, but fun – the makers were singing, calling out (in Danish) and everyone was excited and heady from the warm sweet scent of CANDY.
I love cute little coastal towns. Water, lighthouses and beaches are all I need for a good trip. And I know my kids (and my husband) would love the candy. #FarawayFiles
I’m mean – make your lolli? At the beach? Win and win!
Brrrr, it looks so cold, reading from the warm sunny south! And surfing in the North Sea in April, no way! However, everything else looks lovely, so wild and windswept. You’re lucky getting 5 days off, it’s only 3 in France (just Easter Monday) We’re thinking about a northerly summer holiday and at this stage far north Scotland, Denmark and Norway are all vying for attention. Pinning this for summer reference.
Oooh – that’s a tough choice! Has everyone been to all three? What do the teens say?
I’ve spend my Easter holiday in Jutland myself and I can tell you, the ferry ride from Oslo to Fredrikshavn was rough!!! It was so stormy outside and that kind of weather didn’t change much during the entire length of our stay. But still, I loved that part of Denmark!
Yes – I know it can get choppy – I’ve heard of people falling out of bunks on the crossing from Copenhagen to Oslo! But from a where the water meets the land perspective – especially on Sjælland and around Copenhagen – the water seems so calm to me. Very low waves and little tide. The waves on the west coast felt more familiar to me!
It is beautiful over there and you did get a couple nice sunny days no?
Having grown up on the east coast of Australia, I always feel like the sun should rise over the water and set over land. So it’s strange for me here in California. But anyway, that’s neither here nor there. It looks windy but North Jutland is still beautiful and I’m up for that hike to the lighthouse! #farawayfiles
Yes – I’m sure East Coast Americans would feel the same way! It’s all what you’re used to eh?
What a wonderful place full of sea breeze and charm. I’d love the beach and the lighthouses, my kids would be thrilled to make a lollipop and husband would be fascinated by the WWII connections. Beautiful photos – the definition of the colour blue. Pinned! #FarawayFiles
It sounds wonderful here – so wild, unspoiled and elemental (well, apart from the candy) #farawayfiles
That looks like the perfect Easter beachy escape #farawayfiles
I have spent more time on Jutland when I have visited Denmark – usually to see my friend in Aarhus. I have been to Skagen I think its called which was pretty special. At some point in the future we will be returning to visit my friend and we plan to travel to the north of Jutland so hopefully will get to Lokken!
Great pics, Erin, and thankfully the sun was out! I can imagine fresh air, the calming effects of the sea breeze and sounds of the waves – what a great way to spend the long Easter weekend! #farawayfiles
Thanks kindly Kat! It was very lovely!
Looks like a nice trip! My favorite is that lighthouse – hope it sticks around a little while longer!
Also, I’m so envious of the five days off – we got only one. (Perhaps we need to move back to Europe!) What were the temperatures like during your trip? #Farawayfiles
I love reading about new places, particularly those I’d have never considered visiting. You had me at the lighthouse, and of course the candy making! #farawayfiles
Wonderful! You’ve captured my attention, and definitely made me want to consider a visit to this beautiful place! Surfing and candy, it sounds like my older son’s perfect idea of heaven as he loves both!
I love the mustard yellow colour of the buildings of Lokken. I also laughed a little at the ‘cold Hawaii’ nickname! I would not have thought of Denmark as a place for surfing!
Even though I’ve never been here, I can’t help but feel that you’ve captured the essence of this place beautifully in this post. Makes me even more excited about my upcoming trip to Denmark . Cheers! #FarawayFiles
This looks so peaceful. I have always dreamed of learning to surf in warm waters, but it doesn’t seem like warm waters are the place to learn! Great post!! #farawayfiles
Such a vast and gorgeous scenery, and I can never get enough of those colorful houses!
Stunning scenery! I had no idea about ‘Cold Hawaii’ before, or that surfing was even a thing in Denmark! This place looks like it would be a colourful mix of tourists and locals all year round, but especially in summer. #FarawayFiles
How fondly I remember the extra long bank holiday weekends in Denmark… We once spent a long weekend in Nordjylland, close to Skagen and the ‘meeting of the seas’. We even climbed that humongous dune (Rabjerg Mile?) that sweeps from west to east, swallowing everything in its wake. Lokken looks fabulous, oh so Danish, I’m sure you know what I mean 😉
#FarawayFiles
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