Bagerier – Warning – this post is NOT gluten-free.

Bakeries Around the World You Have to See Before You Die. By definition, I don’t like bucket lists. Why does impending death have to be motivator to seek out the new or unique. Nomenclature aside, these lists can be a good reference point for said seeking, whatever IT is that you are seeking. It is not difficult for me to seek out bread, anywhere I go. But if I am going to ingest all that gluten, I would prefer it be the tastiest darn gluten around. Did you look at the list? If you live in these cities or have visited these cities – you may contest their selections by pushing for your own local favorite. Please, feel free to share yours in a reply below. Personally I loved La Pâtisserie des Rèves (literally pastry of dreams) and everyone must see the iconic pastel macarons at Ladurée in Paris (J’adore the St. Germain location). The best darn baguette we ever ate was from Le Grenier à Pain, located a block-ish from the Abbesses Metro stop on Montmartre, near our flat we had taken for my birthday trip in 2010. In Portland, Oregon, my go-to is St. Honoré, not only because it was walk-able from my house, but the bread is superb – warm, fresh chouquettes by the bag please. You will notice a pattern here. Your favorites are all FRENCH bakeries, you may be thinking. It’s because I didn’t know DANISH bakeries before coming here. I have not yet been to the Copenhagen contingent from the above list – Conditoriet La Glace – but it is definitely a priority now.

One of the things that I love about Danish bageri’s has to be all the good grains and seeds they use. While you wait for your coffee at the little Meyers Bageri outpost on Classengade in Østerbro, there is a window where you can watch the bakers calmly working down below. On the board is large smiley face and the list of all the breads they must bake that day. As I watched, the baker scooped healthy quantities of oats, seeds, grains and gracefully spread them down on his work surface, as if painting his canvas. Into the bed of crunchy goodness he plunk a soft-ish lump of leavened dough – it seemed much looser than I would have deemed easy to seed. Rolling and scooping and prodding, he covered that loaf in the grains and oats and seeds – carefully picked up the seeded goo with his hands and placed it gingerly on a board, which was then in a turn, swifted directly into the large ovens behind him. I imagined my epic Pinterest-fail efforts to do the same – envisioning flour, seeds, grains and goo all over the counter, floor, oven AND myself. His performance was impressive. Bottom line. He must have felt my semi-tranced bread awe because he self-consciously looked up at the window and nodded. Oh – coffee’s ready, time to go. Probably best.

Meyers Bageri on Classengade in Østerbro
Meyers Bageri on Classengade in Østerbro

If you follow food shows or food culture, call yourself a “foodie” perchance? then you are probably familiar with the name Meyers from Meyers Bageri. None other than Claus Meyer, self-labeled gastronomic entrepreneur and co-owner of #1 restaurant in the WORLD – Noma. No, ma… I haven’t eaten there yet. Have to save half our salary and book months in advance – besides, I’m waiting for you! Just kidding – I’ll take you to the bakery though! No wonder the bread is good.

But Classengade, while in my ‘hood, is not as close as a block away (anything that ends in “gade” means street here, for those who don’t know). And why tromp all the way down there, when just a block away is a bageri equally as yummy and just as organic with a cozy place to sit and watch the bikes and people and ever-changing weather through the window. Det Rene Brød. Their classic pretzel shaped neon illuminates the block – calling to you… come here, it’s warm, it’s cozy, it smells fantastic, it’s delicious. It will probably be my undoing.

Det Rene Brød's red neon bageri sign illuminates Rosenvængets Allé
Det Rene Brød’s red neon bageri sign illuminates Rosenvængets Allé

Det Rene Brød means “The Pure Bread.” They are 100% okologisk. (Organic – it’s big here, really big. I thought it was big in Oregon. Easy to find an excellent selection of okologisk produce, meats and BREAD.) Back when we were first in our unfurnished flat with no wi-fi, we would come connect at Det Rene Brød and enjoy a kanelsnegl (direct translation: cinnamon snail aka cinnamon roll), or a frøsnapper (twisty, flaky, poppy and sesame-seeded, lightly sweetened deliciousness), or a pretty pink hindbær snitte (raspberry chopper = best darn spelt-flour pop tart in the world) or just a simple pain au chocolate. A cortado espresso to balance the sweet and life is good. This is one of my definitions of happiness in Denmark.

Enjoying her favorite - the Hindbær Snitte - we call it a "spelt pop tart"
Enjoying her favorite – the Hindbær Snitte – we call it a “spelt pop tart”
Hindbær Snitte
Hindbær Snitte

Bon Appetit!

Both Meyers Bageri and Det Rene Brød have amazing frøsnappers.
Both Meyers Bageri and Det Rene Brød have amazing frøsnappers.

Parkering

No, it’s not a fancy kind of jewelry. Its not something you do in deference to your goofy friend named Parker. (ie; “Chris – stop “Parkering” – you look ridiculous.”) It’s not a circular playground. It’s Parking. In Denmark. Seems straight-forward – right? Now that you know what it means – of course it’s PARKING. Makes sense. Right?

"Boarding and alighting allowed?" What does that mean? Am I doing it? Is the right hours for alighting? I feel like alighting something.
“Boarding and alighting allowed?” What does that mean? Am I doing it? Is it the correct hours for alighting? I feel like alighting something.

HA! Got you! (Or me rather, it got me. It did. It has. It will again I am sure.) Not straight forward. Lots of translation required. And I have failed multiple attempts at that translation.

Loading and unloading allowed apparently. What is the parenthesis for? A different day? And only in this 18m?
Loading and unloading allowed apparently. What is the parenthesis for? A different day? And only in this 18m?

Where do you have to pay for parking? Just about EVERYWHERE. When do you have to pay? ALWAYS! Ok, you get Saturday night after 5pm through Sunday as a break. Find one of these machines Parking machine– press the British flag button so as to understand slightly what you are paying for. Copenhagen parking meter

You can only use a European debit card that has the chip/pin system. That took us a month to get. Your average American bank does not just give those out. Most US banks don’t even have them yet. Get with the system US banks! Or Danish Kroner, the machines also take Danish Kroner. (Danes do not accept Euros here and no where else in the world accepts DKK. There are holes in some of the Kroner. And the paper money is pretty. Prettier than our plain green bucks stateside. The kids think they are cool.) Plunk in your coins or code in your pin and get your ticket. Place it in the window and make sure you read ALL THE SIGNS. And don’t park past the yellow triangle on the street. Else…. TICKET!

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Do I have to pay for parking at the grocery store in the suburbs near the childrens’ school? No. BUT. You have to make sure you change the little dial-y clock ticker thing in your front window. (A parking disc I’m told.)

Parking disc.
Parking disc.

Yep. Maybe you know these. Maybe you’ve been here. Maybe you live here. Maybe some other country that you have visited uses these. WE DON’T HAVE THESE in Oregon. Do other US states or American cities use these? I had never seen them before coming to Denmark. So ok. Change the dial to the time you park. You get one hour gratis at the grocery store. “Great!” I think. I saw that 1 time gratis sign. (In my head I may have said – so next time, its not free?) You might get more free time elsewhere – just make sure you figure it out and set your dial before you leave your car and return before allotted time. Else…. TICKET!

Back to the grocery store. Groceries are very expensive here and there are apparently government limitations on the grandness (or not so grandness) of grocery purveyors physical establishments – they can only be so big. So as to make the best use of space, they sell things in smaller containers. MILK. For instance. You can only buy 1 quart of milk at a time. This is challenging for a family with growing children who probably go through a quart a meal. Or more. I am constantly buying, carrying up 5 flights of stairs, lots of MILK. Thankfully it is delicious milk. As is the smør (butter), yoghurt, cheese and all other dairy. Happy cows make happy cheese. Did I hear that somewhere? ANYWAY – I digress. I had some time to wander the aisles of SuperBest – which is lovely grocer I will add. I used my currency converter and google translate apps to really strategically shop and do my best to make at least two days worth of meals out for 450 DKK (about $75.00 USD). Feeling quite pleased with myself for procuring the organic produce, good Danish pork loin, MILK (maybe some Haribo gummy treats for the kids and some adult beverages) and more, etc., etc., et al. All of this, in definitely under one hour. GRATIS, remember? I return to my vehicle to find a farging parking ticket. It is very nicely placed in a little plastic sleeve right under the windshield wiper by the dial-y thing. I quickly scan the lot for a sign I may have missed. Did I park in the handicapped spot or other specialty labeled zone?

Specialty designated parking spot
Specialty designated parking spot

Was this the target Danish aliens zone? No. I don’t think so? I quickly head into the nearest shop and say “Unskyld. (excuse me?) Can you help me? Do you know why I received this ticket?”

“Oh.”Pause, looks at co-worker. “Did you move the parking dial on your window?”

Heavy sigh. “No.”

“So sorry, you have to do that EVERY TIME. They are very strict.”

No kidding. Boo. How much was the ticket you wonder? 650 DKK!!! ($110 USD) Just think what groceries I could have bought with THAT! Or what other piece of IKEA furniture I could have procured. I was really coveting the Vittjsö, even though I can’t pronounce it. Boo. Balloon deflated. But, bootstraps pulled up. Marching on. Remember to move your dial-y thing. Whatever that is in your life. We all have one right?

Helpful links that I maybe should have looked at that hopefully will help you!

All this leads to the fact that we should probably ditch the car and just ride our bikes like the other half of the Copenhageners! Except don’t miss these signs!

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No Parking on Torsdag - someone is getting a ticket... and it's NOT ME! Oh what's that you say? Today is NOT Torsdag? Its Tuesday. That's not Torsdag? Oh Thursday. Ok thanks.
No Parking on Torsdag – someone is getting a ticket… and it’s NOT ME! Oh what’s that you say? Today is NOT Torsdag? Its Tuesday. That’s not Torsdag? Oh Thursday. Ok thanks.

Godt Nytår from Copenhagen! Happy New Year!

I don’t like New Year’s resolutions, but can’t deny that the turn of the calendar definitively promotes fresh starts. 2014 was a year full of opportunities seized, plans made and challenges faced. Moving from Portland, Oregon to Copenhagen, Denmark was definitely one of those opportunities that has fulfilled and challenged many of our best laid plans. We left Oregon mid-November and after a brief tour of Barcelona and Madrid, spent the remainder of the year attempting to set up life in Denmark – not so easy as it turns out. (More on those comedies later).

It is a new year. Godt Nytår as they here say in Denmark. Here we are. In a semi-IKEA-furnished flat in the middle of Copenhagen. Seizing opportunities and making new plans. One of my goals for 2015 is to be creative daily. How that creativity expresses itself is up to me, the day, and what I have access to. This is supposed to be an attainable goal. Resourcefulness – using what is around me. In that vein, today I used the fruits of our family’s fishing endeavor yesterday – namely 13 frisk torsk. Fresh cod!

We woke in the wee hours and boarded Spar Shipping‘s “Skipper” skib in Østerbro Harbor yesterday. It was a 5+ hour tour of Øresund – just known as “The Sound” around here. It is the body of water between Denmark and Sweden. Cod is in season now – plentifully swimming in schools not too far from shore gorging on crabs near the bottom.

The "Skipper"

Despite the cold, it is pretty easy fishing – throw your rod and lure overboard, gently jig the line up and down and wait for the strike!

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Success! We brought in thirteen nice cod. Not as big maybe as some of the others we saw, but for a first go – pretty satisfied.IMG_0185A quick lesson in gutting and heading your fish on board makes teenage son feel important while wielding a large, sharp knife and into a large plastic sack our fish go.

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Home now with 13 friske fisk.

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A bit of background, I’m not actually the fisher-person per se in my family. My dad endeared us as children to the wonders of baiting and casting and waiting and CATCHING. He was also the one who cleaned the fish. I have never actually cleaned a fish myself. Oh dear cod! So catching cod is conclusively easier than cleaning, filleting, and skinning said cod. What to do when you would like to use all the recipes that friends so charmingly forward to you for usage of the cod you advertised? Why you YouTube how to fillet a cod of course. So I watched this one “Passionate about Fish – How to Fillet a Cod” … maybe 17 times. (It is quite difficult to hit pause and rewind when you are covered in fish slime and scales.)

My first attempts were not pretty and did not afford the beautiful presentation NOR the fishmongers yield.DSC_3830 BUT – after nearly two hours – I now have eleven (we baked two whole last night) cod all cleaned and ready! DSC_3835 They still would not fly in any master cooking show – of which we have been watching a lot because TLC is one of the few channels in English here in Copenhagen, but they will be utilized in a myriad of ways.

Here is last night’s attempt at baked whole cod:

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Rubbed with olive oil, S&P inside and out, placed with sliced lemons and rosemary sprigs into oven at 200C til separated easily from skin. Not family’s favorite application, and I see that the bones were an issue, but easy and quick whilst still slightly wobbling from Baltic boat tour.

This was deliciously easy and quick lunch fashioned today – which I can highly recommend:

Creatively using freshly caught cod for lunch
Creatively using freshly caught cod for lunch

Steamed filets with S&P and dusting of ground ginger, served over baby spinach and refrigerator pickled red onions and a little bit of olive oil on top. So delicious. Fish and chips to come for littles tonight. Will let you know how it goes! Feel free to share ideas on how you are creating your new year. Skål!